If you want to have the trip of your life at very little cost, you need five things:

1. A adventurous and curious scout of unfailing good taste, like Andy, to precede you and tell you what's good.
2. Friends who have lived there who tell you what's good. We thank Gerry Codola, Nino at Tartufo on Hope Street, Lynn Gunzberg, Donna and Alec Morgan, Roberta and Paul Segal.
3. The capacity to use the internet to plan your trip and make your reservations.
4. The chutzpah (balls) to speak the language, even when you don't know it.
5. A wife like Carol, who reads the appropriate travel guides, has taken the courses in art history, serves as your guide and daily planner, holds your hand and pulls you up hills, and listens to your moaning.
6. Lots of frequent flyer miles.
7. Good feet.